New to Beards? Start Here
If you've ever typed "beard oil vs balm" into Google, scrolled Reddit at midnight wondering why your beard is so itchy, or questioned whether any of these products actually work, you're not alone. These are some of the most common questions we hear from guys who are new to beards.
So we've pulled together the questions people are actually asking, and answered them the way we would if you walked up and asked us.
What's the difference between beard oil, balm, butter and wash?
Beard oil: the staple
Oil is your staple product. Some people will tell you it grows your beard. It's not going to miraculously grow hair where there isn't any. If you're struggling to get growth on your upper cheeks, our simplest tip is that it's all about consistency and time.
Beard oil gives you the nutrients and keeps the conditions right so you can keep growing your beard without itching and flaking.
In our opinion, the main cause of itching comes down to sebum, or more precisely not having enough oil in your beard. Your face is a lot more exposed to the conditions than your head, and the body doesn't seem to produce as much oil there. The oil it does produce usually sits under the beard on the skin. Wind, dirt, sun, heat, temperature and moisture all change how much you have. That sebum collects on the skin and forms a layer, but it doesn't make it out along the hair, so the hair gets brittle, frizzy and dry.
Beard oil targets that. You're supplementing your hair with a little bit of oil. It protects you from the environment and stops that small amount of oil drying on your skin and turning into dandruff-type flaking, which can then lead to redness and a whole bunch of other things.
So it won't magically make your beard grow, but it gives you the conditions to grow your beard without the itching, scratching, peeling and flaking. It gives the hair the oil it needs to grow a bit stronger. In some terms, yes, it helps the hair that's already growing. But it won't grow hair in areas that don't grow it.
We see a lot of things like derma rollers on the market, and to be honest, they're pretty flaky. They're not going to grow hair where there wasn't any. We cover Minoxidil in a different blog post (short answer for beard hair, we don't recommend it).
Beard balm: hold and structure
A lot of people search for beard balm for short beards. Yes, you can use it, and yes, it will work, but it's really made for short to medium to long beards. It gives you a little bit of hold, lets you style your beard, and softens the hair while keeping it in place.
If you've got straggly hairs sticking out that are too much for a balm to pull down, you probably want to trim those. Beards also grow in different directions sometimes, and you can train that over time.
For basic maintenance on a medium beard, oil goes in first for the skin and to give you the extra oil you need to protect the hair. Then the balm adds a bit of hold and softens it.
Beard butter: the in-between
Butter doesn't contain beeswax. People might choose it because they don't want beeswax, they prefer vegan products, or they just want something that softens and conditions.
Can you get away with a butter instead of an oil? Yes, you can. It sits somewhere between the balm and the oil. It doesn't have as much hold, but it still conditions, moisturises your skin, and puts in that oil and protective layer. Beeswax does a slightly better job of protecting from the environment, so it's really personal choice. Butter has a more natural hold, while balm has a slightly firmer hold. Butter will also break down a little more oily than balm.
Beard wash: clean and prep
A wash is for cleaning and prep. If you've got food particles, dust, dirt, or dead skin under the hair, a beard wash gets in there. It's low irritant, good for the skin and the hair, and it contains oils, so you're not stripping everything away.
Shampoo for your head is designed to reduce oil in your hair. If you use shampoo or soap on your beard, they strip out the oils, and you're basically priming the problem. If oil is what your beard doesn't have enough of, a shampoo just strips it straight off and you're back to square one.
If you wash with a beard wash and dry your beard, you'll notice how much softer it is, especially if it's frizzy and dry. If you've never used one before, the difference is huge.
What should you look for on the label if you have sensitive skin?
It's hard to speak for everyone's skin because everyone is different. But if in doubt, go unscented. That's our biggest advice. It's the most natural, basic product you can buy: literally cold pressed organic oils, with no essential oils, no fragrance oils, no blends.
We keep our scents to a restricted amount, somewhere between 1 and 4% of the product, so they're not overpowering but not too weak either.
Our general rule of thumb:
- Really sensitive skin: use unscented.
- Sensitive to normal skin: essential oil blends are probably fine.
- If you can use hair shampoos, conditioners, soaps, perfumes and colognes without reacting: you should be fine with fragrance oil blends.
Important: if you have a nut allergy, do not use our products at all. We use nut carrier oils.
We list every ingredient on each product page, along with a note on whether it contains a fragrance oil blend, an essential oil blend, or nothing added. We don't give away our recipes or percentages (that's trade secret), but you'll get an overview of what we use. Ultimately, only you know what your skin can and can't handle.
What are the biggest mistakes guys make when starting out?
The biggest issue we see is people chasing fast growth. Everyone's after the latest and greatest. They want the thickest beard, so they turn to minoxidil, derma rollers, beard straighteners, and the list goes on. If you really want a beard, you just have to put in the time.
If you've already got a beard, you probably know the issues: dry, frizzy, rough and coarse. If you've never used beard products before and you start using a wash, an oil, and a balm or butter, the difference is night and day. After a couple of days, any flaking starts clearing up. Your beard is softer, it smells good, it looks a bit shinier and healthier, and your partner or other people might comment on it.
People chase stuff that's unnatural, unrealistic, and fights their genetics. Our biggest advice is to grow a beard for six months. You don't have to trim, though you can. You might want to keep your neckline and cheek line under control, while using a wash and an oil.
When you're starting out, you can get away with just an oil, but a wash and an oil is the best starter pack, and we have a combo for that. Just choose your scent and you're away laughing. The next step up is our trio pack with an oil, a balm and a wash, or the alternative with an oil, a butter and a wash. Those are really the three products you need.
Brush or comb?
Once you get some length, you might want a comb or brush. We use boar bristle brushes. They pull the hair downwards and help you shape it. Some people prefer to go vegan, and unfortunately we don't cater for that at the moment, because we find boar bristle superior for beards.
The alternative is a good beard comb. We're not fans of plastic or metal. Metal can catch hairs and scratch the skin, and plastic can create static, which makes things frizzy. Wood is generally best because it doesn't create static, and it helps spread the product through your hair. A brush also helps move product around and style.
What does a simple daily routine look like?
Step 1: Wash (every 2 to 3 days)
We always recommend washing first. You don't need to wash every day, but you can. It depends on your work environment and personal preference.
For most beards, washing every second or third day is plenty, usually in the morning as part of your normal shower. Put a couple of pumps in your hands, rub them together, work it through your beard, let it sit for about 30 seconds while you carry on washing, then rinse it out.
Some people say cold water is better than hot. In reality, who's standing in a cold shower? Warm to hot water is fine.
If you work in a dusty or dirty environment or out in the sun, you might need to wash daily. Our wash is low irritant and low oil-stripping, so you can use it every day. Just remember it's a concentrate of good core ingredients, not thinned out with aqua, which is why you might see bigger bottles elsewhere for the same price or cheaper.
Step 2: Dry
Towel dry your beard. Some people suggest patting, some advise against rubbing. Do whatever you're comfortable with.
Step 3: Oil
Depending on length, use two to five sprays of beard oil, either into your palms or straight into your beard, then work it through with your hands. A little goes a long way. You can always add more, but you can't take it away, so start small.
Step 4: Balm or butter
Then take a dollop, about a fingertip, depending on beard length, of balm or butter. Rub it between your hands, run your hands upwards through your beard and then back down a couple of times, and judge whether you've got enough in for the hold you want and whether your beard looks well coated.
Step 5: Brush
Grab a boar bristle brush and brush upwards, then downwards. It gives a fuller effect. The hair goes up and out, and when you bring it down it fills out a bit more.
Step 6: Trim
We like to get the beard into the state we want to wear it, and then trim. Take off any flyaway hairs, tidy up your moustache line and cheek lines, and shave your neckline. Some people prefer to trim first. We prefer afterwards so you can see the final look.
Topping up during the day
Follow that routine every day, except the wash, which you can do every two to three days. Some people do it twice a day. If you do your routine at 8 am and by 2 pm you feel dry because you've been out in the wind or sun, or you just want to smell it again, add some more oil, balm or butter. It'll wear off depending on your environment, what you've eaten, whether you've put sunblock on, and everyday life. Or if you get home and shower at 5 pm after work, that might be when you do your routine. It comes down to personal preference.
Some people alternate between balm and butter, or use balm in the morning and butter overnight. One tip: we don't recommend the overnight thing these days. Pillowcases, butter, stains. You get the drift.
Thinking about growing a beard?
We think every man needs to grow a beard once in his life.
Whether you're 18 to 25 and exploring facial hair, or older, everyone gets there at some point. There's a ritual when you hit 16 or so and start shaving. You've got this new stuff on your face and you're thinking, what is this? What do I do with it? There's something interesting about going through the process of growing a beard or some sort of facial hair, whether it's a goatee or a moustache. It's personal. Styles come through in cycles, like the 80s mo. But everyone should grow some facial hair once, so why not make it a beard? Do it properly, look after it, and hopefully get some comments. Maybe someone's into it, maybe they're not.
Some men have always had a beard. Their dad had one, their granddad had one, their ancestors had them. There's something nostalgic about it. When people think of bearded men, they think of a manly man, like Vikings and warriors. Throughout history, beards have followed men around.
Beards can also make you look better. If you've got a weak chin, a beard can fill that out. And if you're balding or losing your hair, a decent beard looks great. People who are bald on top can usually grow a decent beard, and it's a great way to pull off the look.
If you're worried about patchiness or itch: commit to six months and see if you like it. Use the right products so you don't give up after two weeks because it got itchy, it's flaking, or you got ingrown hairs. Trust the process. See what you can actually grow. Sometimes between the three and six month mark, the patchy bits get covered because the surrounding areas fill in and support them. Work with what you've got.
Want to check out our products? Our beard kits and combos are our best deals